Will Meyrick on Bali’s Evolving Food Scene: From Street Eats to Signature Concepts

From the early days of Sarong and Mamasan to his latest venture, Buzo, Will has shaped the island’s dining scene while reflecting on the deeper meaning of food, community, and cultural connection.

Will’s journey is anything but ordinary. A self-proclaimed unruly teenager who found structure in the kitchen, he credits the discipline of cooking with turning his life around. “Kitchens gave me a sense of structure and instant gratification,” he shares. “For many of us in hospitality, it’s where we find camaraderie, purpose, and a space to belong.” His early years in Bali, arriving fresh-faced with nose piercings and ripped jeans, set the tone for a career that would challenge conventions at a time when Seminyak was little more than a quiet street dotted with warungs.

What began as a two-year stint in Bali evolved into a lifelong passion. After time spent cooking across Southeast Asia, including Hong Kong and Thailand, Will returned to Bali and opened Sarong - the restaurant that put him on the map and earned accolades like the San Pellegrino Top 50. Following Sarong’s success came Mamasan, a refined take on street food, and a string of other venues across the region.

But for Will, the heart of his cooking has always been rooted in Southeast Asia’s culinary culture. Inspired by his travels, from the bustling streets of Vietnam to remote villages in Laos, he was drawn to the necessity-driven food of the region. “In Asia, people cook to live. There’s an honesty to it,” he says. His early mission was to uncover hidden recipes, to learn from the aunties and uncles serving up bowls of pho or spring rolls made with precision and love. “You can have my recipe,” he recalls an old woman telling him, “but you can never copy me, because every hand is different.”

Yet, as he reflects, the culinary landscape has shifted. The internet and social media have made once-guarded recipes widely accessible, diluting some of the discovery and intimacy he once cherished. “It’s less about chasing recipes now,” he admits, “and more about crafting personal interpretations, what we call fusion or neo-Asian.”

His latest project, Buzo, is a testament to this evolution. A contemporary space in Seminyak blending Japanese precision with Italian soul, think sushi, sashimi, pastas, and etchi-style pizzas, Buzo is designed for a new wave of diners. “Seminyak needed something fresh,” Will says. “The design is flexible, the food is global, and the vibe is casual yet refined.”

Beyond the plate, Will’s perspective on Bali’s tourism and dining scene is candid. He sees an industry reshaped by post-COVID dynamics: younger, transient visitors; a shift to casual, at-home dining; and the decline of traditional hotel-based tourism. “Bali used to be a place for cultural immersion,” he reflects. “Now, it’s often more about the Instagram moment than a deeper connection with the local culture.” Yet, despite these challenges, his passion endures. He’s currently working on a major project in Lombok featuring 12 restaurants and four hotels, exploring “Gunpowder Empire” cuisines, an intriguing blend of Middle Eastern, Indian, and Ottoman flavours. There’s also a new Asian fire grill concept coming to Ubud, and plans to reopen the beloved Sarong.

Through it all, Will’s ethos remains clear: storytelling comes first. Whether it’s a street corner in Vietnam or a sleek brasserie in Bali, every restaurant, every dish must have a narrative. It’s this dedication to authenticity and evolution that’s kept Will at the forefront of Bali’s ever-changing food scene.

As for the next generation of Bali restaurateurs, his advice is simple yet wise: start in a hotel, learn the ropes, and never underestimate the importance of understanding the local landscape before jumping in. It’s a recipe for longevity in an industry where trends fade fast, but a well-told story can last a lifetime.